Wine of the Month – June

“Sometimes what you see is what you get”

I catch your eye from across the room,
My bright colours mesmerise and enchant.
I can tell you want me…
 I have the perfect figure, showing you only what you want to see,
My best assets labelled so clearly.
You need me…
You move closer,
You seem captivated and intrigued by me presence.
I deceive you, yet you take hold of me anyway.
 There is a saying: never judge a book by its cover,
Well, I’ll give you one piece of advice,
Never judge a wine purely by its bottle,
 Afterall, I may not be all I seem…

For our wine of the month I really am testing this theory. The Reichsrat von Buhl, Bone Dry Riesling is certainly a wine with a striking label, but does the appearance of the bottle reflect its substance?

Reichsrat von Buhl has been a family-owned winery for more than 150 years and has belonged to the circle of the most prestigious wineries in Germany for just as long. Since it was founded in 1849, Reichsrat von Buhl has made its wines in a terroir-dominated, timeless style that has never been oriented to fashion, but always to the grapes’ origins in the best soils of Deidesheimer and Forster. Reichsrat von Buhl is certified organic, and is an active ambassador of both natural, sustainable viticulture and of the best German wines.

They specialise in making dry wines at Reichsrat von Buhl and they love them to be really dry. According to the German wine law, dry can be up to 9 g of residual sugar. But that’s actually not really that dry. At least not in Reichsrat’s von Buhl’s opinion. For them, dry means 0-4 g of residual sugar, making their wines extremely dry indeed.

The family suggest that the reason behind their eye-catching label, ‘the skull’, was in fact their way of enabling the recipient to visualise the bone-dry taste. But have they pulled it off? Or have they only deceived us.

To the eye, the wine is incredibly bright and lively. Taking a deep breath, distinctive aromas of fresh peach and apricot might come to mind. The fruit flavours are counterbalanced by an edge of flint and minerality, all making this wine full and intense on the palate. This wine is clearly not only striking in its labelling but also in the wine itself and in fact if you really look closely at this wines lable, within the skull you may see citrus wedges for eyes a pineapple crown, is the skull suggesting a little more than just the ‘bone dry’ nature of this wine. I will let you decide. What do you see upon this label?

Assistant restaurant manager, Kaye Turton